As the world rushes to resolve various environmental issues in order to realize a sustainable society, consumer awareness is also changing.

According to the results of a survey released by the Consumer Affairs Agency on November 17, 2021, 89.6% of respondents were interested in ” ethical consumption,” consumption behavior that takes into account social issues. 59.1% of respondents were interested in “ethical consumption” in the 2020 survey and 35.9% in the 2016 survey. This comparison shows that consumers’ awareness of the environment has been growing rapidly in recent years.

The Michelin Guide, one of the world’s most well-known gourmet guides, will establish a new “Michelin Green Star” category in 2021, which will focus on the concept of sustainability. It is clear that consumers are beginning to place more importance on a restaurant’s “commitment to sustainability” when selecting a restaurant.

Therefore, this column will detail the efforts of the 12 restaurants that received the Green Star in the Michelin Guide Tokyo 2023, which was released on November 18, 2022.

Table of Contents

Ma Cuisine

“Ma Cuisine”, a Green Star and Bib Gourmand winner, is a bistro in Nishi-Azabu, Tokyo, that offers a la carte dishes with a focus on French regional cuisine.

Ma Cuisine, which mainly uses ingredients produced in Tokushima Prefecture, has been working with producers and educators in Tokushima Prefecture to pass on food culture and traditions through food education classes at schools, live kitchens, and the use of SNS to communicate Tokushima Prefecture’s agricultural products and traditional culture.

In the live kitchen, under the theme of “local production for local consumption and food loss reduction“, French cuisine that practices ethical consumption was presented, including sauces made from vegetable peels, roots, and other discarded parts, and sausages made from meat scraps that would otherwise be cut off to form sausages. The company is promoting the spread of ethical consumption and the creation of a recycling-oriented society through “consumption” by providing authentic course meals at school lunches that use plenty of local ingredients, and by conveying to children the meaning of “taking life” as it comes.

Chef Ikejiri of Ma Cuisine commented on his official Instagram page that through these activities, he believes that children’s sensitivity can be enriched through cross-cultural experiences, including artistic expression through French cooking techniques.

Ma Cuisine also contributes to the reduction of food loss and the realization of sustainable agriculture by actively using unused fish and off-spec vegetables that have low commercial value and cannot be marketed, as well as ingredients grown through recycling-oriented agriculture that does not use pesticides or chemical fertilizers, in its restaurants.

LATURE

Green Star and one star awarded “LATURE” is a French restaurant in Aoyama, Tokyo, that serves gibier cuisine. Gibier refers to wild animals that are hunted or captured for use as ingredients, including deer, wild boar, bears, ducks, pheasants, and rabbits.

The theme of LATURE is “coexistence and symbiosis with nature.” Chef Murota of LATURE not only cooks, but also goes to the mountains to hunt game himself. In recent years, the number of wild animals such as bears and deer that appear in the city has been increasing. Mr. Murota believes that the reason for this situation is that we humans have destroyed forests inhabited by wild animals for our own profit. They show respect for life by cooking it in an appropriate way and eating it deliciously.

LATURE, which has its own farm in Murota’s hometown of Chiba, uses organic farming methods to grow vegetables, and promotes the reduction of food loss by utilizing off-spec vegetables without throwing them away. In addition, Mr. Murota opened “MONICA,” a bakery open only two hours between lunch and dinner, to make use of the unused ingredients at LATURE. The bakery offers a variety of “sustainable breads,” such as sausage bread made from offcuts of wild game.

LATURE also regularly participates in supporting children’s cafeterias in order to connect the “wonderful Japanese food culture” to the future. LATURE is also involved in nutrition education by cooking French food with children and helping them to think about food-related issues.

Sincere

“Sincere”, a Green Star and one-star restaurant, is a French restaurant located in Kitasando, Tokyo. The restaurant offers unique and playful dishes based on traditional French culinary techniques combined with uniquely Japanese ingredients, such as pie-wrapped fish in the shape of a taiyaki.

The seafood served at Sincere is sustainable seafood caught by fishing and gill net fishing. Sincere chef Ishii is also a core member of “Chefs for the Blue”, a general incorporated association established in 2017 by about 30 journalists and top chefs from Tokyo who felt threatened by Japan’s oceans, where fish stocks had plummeted.

“Sea Bass in a Pie Wrapper” in the shape of a taiyaki

Chef Ishii has been promoting various educational activities as part of Chefs for the Blue’s activities to think about sustainable seafood resources and connect food culture to the future, inviting researchers and people in the fishery industry to participate in a series of study sessions In September 2022, as a sister restaurant of Sincere “Sincere BLUE” a restaurant themed on sustainable seafood, will open in September 2022 to address the issue of marine resources.

Nœud.TOKYO

“Nœud. TOKYO”, a French restaurant in Nagatacho, Tokyo, which was awarded a Green Star and one star, is based on the concept of “all sustainable French cuisine”.

At Nœud. TOKYO, in order to realize local production for local consumption and seasonal production for seasonal consumption, the chef visits the production areas and selects ingredients that are produced with consideration for the cycle of nature. Vegetables are grown organically and without pesticides, wild game and fish are grown as naturally as possible, and meat and eggs are raised without chemicals or cages.

Right: Counter table made of recycled Azuchi-Momoyama period clay walls and Japanese cedar / Left: QR code menu

Nœud. TOKYO practices waste-free cooking in consideration of food loss, and serves only one type of once-in-a-lifetime course meal that changes daily to maximize the seasonal flavor of the ingredients. The restaurant has also realized a paperless system with a QR-code menu. The restaurant’s interior features walls made of recycled Azuchi-Momoyama period clay and counter tables made of Japanese cedar.

FARO

“FARO”, a Green Star and one-star restaurant, is an innovative Italian restaurant in Ginza, Tokyo, run by “Shiseido Co”. FARO offers modern and original cuisine that goes beyond the boundaries of Italian cuisine, combining the tradition and innovation of modern Italian cuisine with the rich ingredients and culture of Japan.

Left: Mediterranean inspired interior / Right: Beautiful blue gradation of traditional Japanese washi paper at the entrance

FARO focuses on vegan courses that use pesticide-free vegetables and herbs, and there is also an oriental vegan genre that avoids five pungent roots (leeks, chives, garlic, and rakkyo). In January 2022, a limited-time Oriental vegan course in collaboration with Koyasan Kongoji Temple became a hot topic.

Chef Noda, who travels throughout Japan to visit producers, also visits potters to select tableware, cutlery, and table accessories to preserve Japan’s wonderful traditional culture. He has selected items “made by Japanese artisans”, such as Niigata’s Kumiko, Tajimi and Arita ware, Imabari’s textiles, and Edo Kiriko glasses, to contribute to the inheritance of traditional Japanese culture.

Left: “Koyasan Vegetables Grilled in a Salt Kettle”, a dish from the Oriental Vegan Course / Right: “Universe” by Takashi Takahashi, a ceramic artist from Niigata Prefecture

La Paix

“La Paix”, a Green Star and one-star restaurant, is a French restaurant in Nihonbashi, Tokyo, that offers seasonal cuisine fusing Japanese and French under the five philosophies of “Japan,” “harmony,” “heart,” “connection,” and “five senses”.

Chef Matsumoto of La Paix, who was influenced by his family’s “oden kappo restaurant”, pursues a uniquely Japanese style of French cuisine, offering courses featuring seasonal ingredients such as sweetfish in summer and chestnuts and mushrooms in autumn. He offers courses based on seasonal ingredients, such as “ayu (sweetfish)” in summer and “chestnuts and mushrooms” in fall. While communicating directly with producers to procure seasonal ingredients, he heard a story from a producer in Wakayama about peaches that were being discarded because of their poor appearance, which led to the creation of the “Peach Course,” which has been offered for more than 10 years.

 
In addition to peaches, the company actively uses substandard ingredients for fruits and vegetables. Seafood is sourced from sustainable seafood certified under “the MSC certification system”, which certifies that the seafood is caught through sustainable fishing practices that consider marine resources and the marine environment, and “ASC certification”, which certifies that the seafood is produced through sustainable aquaculture. Sustainable Seafood certification, which certifies that the seafood is produced through sustainable aquaculture. This contributes to the reduction of food loss and the conservation of marine resources.

Den

“Den”, a Japanese restaurant in Gaienmae, Tokyo, which has been awarded the Green Star and two stars, aims to provide “home-style cooking” that is prepared with the guest’s pleasure in mind, and offers creative dishes that incorporate a playful touch to traditional kaiseki cuisine. The restaurant pursues “entertaining people” by creating unconventional and unique dishes such as “Den Tacky,” which is chicken wings stuffed with steamed rice.

Den, which is committed to creating an environmentally friendly restaurant, practices procurement in consideration of the fishing grounds and environmental impact by adopting vegetables produced through organic farming, which has a low environmental impact, and purchasing fish without specifying the type of fish. Substandard lumber is used for the interior. Chef Hasegawa of Den, who is also notable for being ranked No. 1 in the 2022 edition of “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants,” is committed to spreading Japanese cuisine around the world, traveling around the world with soy sauce, mirin, and dried bonito flakes to present Japanese cuisine using locally sourced ingredients, thereby helping to carry on the traditions of Japan.

Chef Hasegawa, who says he learns from nature by fishing and mushroom hunting, has also devised a dish using the “wood turtle,” an invasive alien species that has become a problem in recent years due to its proliferation and destruction of the ecosystem. On his official Instagram page, Hasegawa said that it is the fault of selfish people that they are breeding in large numbers, and that the tortoises are blameless. He commented that he decided to cook the dish to honor and show respect for the turtles’ lives, rather than simply killing them.

Florilege

“Florilege”, a French restaurant in Jingumae, Tokyo, which has been awarded the Green Star and two stars, is a French restaurant that sincerely deals with the background of the producers and ingredients, and delivers the chef’s “feelings” that are put into each dish. The chef himself brings out the dishes from the open kitchen surrounded by counters, and directly conveys to the customers the feelings and story behind each dish.

 
Chef Kawate of Florilege is interested in various social and environmental issues, and has developed a deep understanding of the “nature of ingredients”. In 2017, he personally traveled to the Amazon to see where “cacao” is produced, where child labor and poverty are serious problems. Kawate has stopped using “chocolate” and”foie gras“, which are considered problematic from an animal welfare perspective, because he does not use ingredients he feels uncomfortable about their “true nature.

Chef Kawate, who has been buying discarded substandard vegetables directly from producers, wanted to demonstrate his passion for the food loss issue through his cuisine and created Florilege’s signature dish, “Sustainability Beef”. This dish, made with beef that had been considered worthless in Japan due to its stinky taste and hard image, gave a new value to beef that had been produced in Japan before.

NARISAWA

Green Star and two-starred “NARISAWA” has established its own genre of “Innovative Satoyama Cuisine” in the spirit of “nature” and is neither classic Japanese cuisine nor French cuisine, The restaurant is located in Aoyama, Tokyo, and offers NARISAWA’s unique cuisine, which is neither classic Japanese nor French.

 

With the symbol of a “bee”, which protects the forest ecosystem, NARISAWA Chef Narisawa has been expressing “the coexistence of people and nature” since the restaurant opened in 2003, and was awarded the first place in the “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants” list announced in 2013. In 2018, he was awarded “the Grand Prix de l’Art de la Cuisine” by the International Society of Gastronomy, an award given to the person who has mastered the art of food. Mr. Narisawa, who places great importance on the environment in which his ingredients grow, has traveled to fields, oceans, and mountains throughout Japan in search of “delicious and safe ingredients,” and has also contributed to the preservation of mountain ecosystems by cleaning up and planting trees in depopulated satoyama areas.

Left: NARISAWA’s interior / Right: “‘Charcoal’ Hyogo Kobe Beef”, a dish with a message of “bringing back the days when we used firewood and charcoal and coexisted with forests” in response to today’s widespread use of electricity and gas.

Chef Narisawa realized that the safety of ingredients is directly related to the safety of the soil, and he created “soil soup,” which is made by boiling burdock root with the soil still attached. He has continued to create a number of signature dishes based on inspiration from nature, such as “Water Salad,” “Essence of Forest,” and “Charcoal,” to convey the “coexistence of people and nature” that is part of Japan’s satoyama culture.

Crony

“Crony” is a French restaurant in Higashi-Azabu, Tokyo, that offers the concept of “enduring tea-drinking companionship,” as the restaurant’s name “Crony” implies, through dishes that are full of seasonal flavors. Chef Haruta of Crony uses the sensibility he has cultivated through his training in Scandinavia and the U.S. to offer delicate and creative French-based cuisine.

Starting with “seasonal tea,” Crony’s courses include specialties such as “Sake Sourdough Bread with Sake Lees Butter,” which is made from sake lees, an industrial waste product, and smoked dishes made from waste wood shavings. Other efforts to reduce food loss include the use of non-standard vegetables and procurement according to the number of customers and their preferences.

Crony also uses farmed fish and shellfish as much as possible, without using juvenile fish or endangered species, in order to contribute to the conservation of marine life, which is declining year by year due to global warming and overfishing. For salt, we do not use the most common production method of “kiln cooking,” but instead use “complete sun-drying,” which produces salt without carbon dioxide emissions, and we practice procurement in consideration of ecosystem preservation. The company is also committed to ecological procurement.

L’Effervescence

“L’Effervescence”, which received a Green Star and three stars, is a French restaurant in Nishi-Azabu, Tokyo, that aims to create a “Ichizakonryu,” where the entire dining experience becomes one by expressing a symbiotic relationship with nature against a backdrop of traditional Japanese culture and ingredients.

L’Effervescence has a history of being selected as the first restaurant to win the “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants” award in the newly established “Asia’s Sustainable Restaurant Award” since 2018.L’Effervescence’s Chef Namae is committed to supporting producers and To support producers and reduce food mileage, L’Effervescence’s chef Ikue uses only domestic ingredients. For garbage disposal, he has installed a biodegradable garbage disposal machine that reduces carbon dioxide emissions by 94%. He has also been practicing environmentally friendly restaurant operations, such as not using endangered species of fish and using wood from thinned forests for the wood fire.

Through these efforts, Mr. Namae has been exploring the significance of chefs in society, and in 2021, he entered the Graduate School of Agricultural and Life Sciences at the University of Tokyo with the desire to be able to “communicate persuasively” as a chef. He belongs to the Laboratory of Food and Resource Economics, where he conducts research on food systems and food consumption.

Mr.Namae also spoke at an event held at the United Nations General Headquarters in New York on “World Oceans Day”, June 8, 2022, where he spoke about “seaweed,” which is decreasing every year due to rising sea water temperatures caused by global warming, and the “rocky shore burn problem” caused by ecosystem collapse. In addition, he is actively promoting other social contribution activities such as a children’s cafeteria and support for disaster-stricken areas.

Quintessence

“Quintessence”, a Green Star and three-star restaurant, is a French restaurant in Shinagawa, Tokyo, where Chef Kishida has developed the three processes of “produits (ingredients), cuisons (fire), and açaise (seasoning)” that he learned from his training at the three-star restaurant “Astrance” in Paris. The restaurant offers a blank course called “carte blanche”.

Quintessence offers only one course menu, which is prepared according to guests’ preferences, in order to use all of the fresh, seasonal ingredients delivered on the morning of the event and serve them in their optimum condition. For customers who have restrictions on the ingredients they can eat due to allergies or other reasons, the restaurant asks in advance and completes the course two days in advance. The pursuit of the best service along with the food leads to the response to food diversity, which inevitably leads directly to the reduction of food loss.

Mr. Kishida also feels a sense of crisis about Japan’s oceans, where fishery resources have been drastically depleted, and has worked to conserve fishery resources by not using overfished fry, etc. He has also become a board member of “Chefs for the Blue”, a team of chefs who think about the future of the ocean, and is committed to promoting and raising awareness of sustainable seafood. In 2020, when the spread of the new coronavirus occurred, he also worked to contribute to society by supervising the menu of free boxed lunches provided to medical institutions under the “Smile Food Project”, which was launched to support medical institutions in dire straits.

Editor’s Note

Grandmaison’s efforts, which have been awarded a Green Star in the globally influential Michelin Guide, range from the most basic to the most challenging. Grandmaison’s “pursuit of the highest quality” is directly related to the actions required to solve various contemporary issues such as food loss reduction, conservation of natural resources, and food diversity.

[Related Article]

フォアグラやキャビアなど、飲食店が今後提供できなくなるかもしれない18の食材まとめ

[Reference Site] Michelin GUIDE Tokyo,Japan List of Green Star Awarded Stores
[Reference Site] Michelin Green Star” in the “Michelin Guide Tokyo 2022”
[Reference Site]Consumer Affairs Agency: Results of an awareness survey on eating out and ethical consumption.
[Reference Site]Consumer Affairs Agency: Summary of Consumer Awareness Survey Report on Ethical Consumption (Ethical Consumption)
[Reference site] A rich future created by Tokushima producers and traditional culture
[Reference site] Ma Cuisine official facebook
[Reference Site] Official Instagram of Ma Cuisine
[Reference site] LATURE official website policy
[Reference site] Open for 2 hours! THE restaurant’s bread to be savored at the bakery opened by “L’Attere”
[Reference Site] Cynthia Blue, a restaurant focusing on sustainable seafood, opened in Harajuku, Tokyo, on September 11!
[Reference site] The Future of Seafood and Our Responsibility to Learn from Chef Cynthia, 1 Michelin Star [Sustainable Gastronomy #2
[Reference site] Michelin GUIDE “Cynthia
[Reference Site]One year after opening, “Nœud. TOKYO” receives its first Green Star in the “Michelin Guide Tokyo 2022”
[Reference site] Creating innovation and carrying on tradition: the story of FARO’s chef-oriented “tableware” [FOOD MADE GOOD#5] (Part 2)
[Reference Site] FARO” receives “One Star” for the second consecutive year and the first “Green Star” in the “Michelin Guide Tokyo 2022”
[Reference Site] FARO” won the “Michelin Guide Tokyo 2023” – “One Star” for the third year in a row and “Green Star” for the second year in a row!
[Reference site] La Paix official website Philosophy
[Reference Site] La Paix Official Instagram [Annual Peach Course]
[Reference Site] Chef Ippei Matsumoto of “La paix”, son of an oden shop, becomes popular for his French cuisine! Focusing on “Connection” and the SDGs, we are going beyond the Corona Disaster.
[Reference site] WWF Japan “What is MSC Certification System?”
[Reference site] WWF Japan “What is ASC Certification?”
[Reference Site] Den” in Tokyo takes the number one spot on the 2022 edition of “Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants,” released today
[Reference site] Palais de Z – The Future of Taste #33_Jaisuke Hasegawa (Den)
[Reference site] Florilege official website
[Reference site] Changing the world by bringing awareness to the worldHiroyasu Kawate, Florilege [Chef connects the future of food] Vol. 3
[Reference site] [Sustainable Gastronomy with Next Generation Chefs] vol.4 Hiroyasu Kawate, Florilege
[Reference site] “Florilege” Chef Kawate’s Rules of Originality
[Reference site] NARISAWA official website
[Reference site] Yoshihiro Narisawa of “NARISAWA” pursues the role of gastronomy based on the spirit of nature [Chef connects the future of food]
[Reference site] Communicating “Coexistence with Nature” through Artistic Cuisine – The Core of Chef Narisawa’s Cuisine [International Society of Gastronomy Award Ceremony Report
[Reference Site] Michelin GUIDE Chefs Connecting the Future of Food
[Reference Site] Sake brand “SAKE HUNDRED” collaborated with Michelin two-star restaurant “NARISAWA” to hold a pairing lunch on Saturday, December 12
[Reference Site] “SAKE HUNDRED x NARISAWA Pairing Lunch” Report
[Reference site] Crony official website about
[Reference Site] Michelin chef’s view on the new movement needed in Japan’s fisheries and restaurant industry (Part 1)
[Reference site] The Health of the Earth and the Health of the Body. Putting our thoughts on the future into a collaborative dinner
[Reference site] What is Sustainable? Refervaissons Fuminobu Namae [Chef connects us to the future of food] Vol.4
[Reference Site] Chef Fuminobu Namae of L’Effervescence will be speaking at the UN Headquarters on World Oceans Day on behalf of Relais & Chateaux.
[Reference site] Quintessence official website
[Reference Site] The philosophy of Chef Shuzo Kishida of the three-star restaurant “Cantissance
[Reference site] “Smile Food Project,” a project by chefs to support medical institutions, was re-launched!

table source 編集部
table source 編集部
table source 編集部では、サステナビリティやサーキュラーエコノミー(循環経済)に取り組みたいレストランやホテル、食にまつわるお仕事をされている皆様に向けて、国内外の最新ニュース、コラム、インタビュー取材記事などを発信しています。
Share
This